Category Archives: Maui

Camille Juban | Guadeloupe

Camille Juban has been passionate about the ocean since a very young age, starting to surf at 5 and windsurf at the age of 7. His passion and dedication to the sport is more than evident in his extreme windsurfing style and his accomplishments with a win in 2011 at the Maui Makani Classic at Ho’okipa as well as winning the overall AWT event that year. Camille is also a Guinness world record holder for the ‘longest duration surfing a wave – windsurfing’! Despite his success as a windsurfer Camille remains grounded and humble. On shore, he comes across as quiet and unassuming but put him in the water and he transforms! His windsurfing is aggressive and powerful and the range of his windsurf moves is vast. Great to see Camille back on Maui and to be able to photograph him again! Thanks for the interview!

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Name: Camille Juban
Age: 23
Nationality: Born in France & moved to Guadeloupe when I was 4
Status: Single
Where are you currently based? Guadeloupe & Maui
Sponsors: Quatro, Maui Sails, MFC, Orange, Hyandai, Tainos, Longhorn
How many languages do you speak? Which ones? French, English, Spanish & Creole
Why are you so passionate about windsurfing? Because it gives me the feeling I need to get out of hectic life. It makes me feel good and relaxes me. The more I windsurf, the more I want to windsurf. It’s like a drug!
Most visited website? (Other than Facebook!) Instagram. Forecast websites
Words you believe describe you: Shy, Island style
A phrase or motto you live by: What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger

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If you could have dinner with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and why?
My ex-girlfriend

If you were a superhero, which power would you want to have? Flying

You’re going on a windsurfing trip to a desert island, other than your windsurf gear, what 3 things do you take with you? Surfboard, friends, girlfriend

If I take a look inside your refrigerator what would I find? Milk & cereal, some type of pasta, cheese – I’m still French even though I’m from Guadeloupe! There will be some sauce for pasta and sometimes when I’m motivated I buy salads, tomatoes, avos! Do you cook? Yes, sometimes in the mornings when I’m tired of cereal and milk, I’ll cook eggs & bacon and avocado

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How long have you been windsurfing?
I started surfing at 5 and windsurfing at 7

Where is your favourite windsurfing spot and why? I’ve never been to Marshall Islands but I think it looks like a good place. So far it’s Cabo Verde and home because it’s not crowded and there are nice waves.

Who was your inspiration when you started windsurfing?
Actually Levi & Jason Polakow. When I was young I had posters in my room of Levi & Polakow and Keith Teboul. And now I’m here and part of it and I’m with Levi in some contests!

If you could do it all over again is there anything you would change about your windsurfing career? I don’t think so. Maybe more travelling. For example, I’ve never been to Indonesia. I’d like to go to the Marshall Island and Australia. I will do it but so far those are places I want to go to.

If you weren’t a windsurfer, what would you be doing?
I’d probably be working in the woods with my father. Maybe working in a commercial company. My father builds bungalows and wooden decking around swimming pools. I have already worked with him and I like it.

What has been your biggest windsurf achievement?
At Ho’okipa in 2011 because to win an event there is historic. That was my big moment. Even winning the AWT is good but it’s not the same. Ho’okipa is the one you want to win!

Which windsurfing move do you wish you had invented? 360

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What is a typical night out? What is a typical night in? Usually it’s quite mellow, I’ll watch a movie and go to bed early or have a barbecue with friends but when I go party it’s until the end of the night. Complete opposite!

What do you see yourself doing in 10 years from now?
Windsurfing! I hope to have more projects and my goal is to stay busy on projects around windsurfing.

What do you consider to be your worst quality? Your best quality?
Being shy isn’t good. I don’t know if it’s my worst. And my best – to be talented at windsurfing.

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Please finish all these sentences:

I’m a big believer in…. destiny

Call me crazy but…. I’m happy to windsurf every day

My favorite place on earth is…. with the people i love

My parents are…. special

I could never…. stop windsurfing

I’ve always wanted to… go to Marshall Islands

Life is nothing without….
love and windsurfing

Today I will…. go in the water

The internet is…. taking too much time out of our lives

If I had the power I would change….
the fact that kids spend too much useless time on the internet and computer.

I am…. happy.

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Antoine Martin | Guadeloupe

There are some people in the water that you know are going to go for it whether it’s over mast high or only knee high and one of those people is Antoine Martin. Although he’s well known for trying many manoeuvres in all kind of conditions he tells us he’s not as fearless as most people would believe. Despite that admission, we can see that nothing stops him from windsurfing with an intensity and passion that has made him a great windsurfer.

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Name: Antoine Martin
Age: 20
Nationality: born in Guadeloupe
Status: girlfriend
Where are you currently based? Guadeloupe
Sponsors: JP, Neil Pryde, MFC, Tainos, Etra, Zoo Rock Cafe, Adenfi, Adf médico dentaire, Coté Sud, H2O. Without my local sponsors I wouldn’t be here!
How many languages do you speak? Which ones? English, French, Spanish, Creole
Why are you so passionate about windsurfing? I’m from an island so I’ve always been around water so I’ve become addicted to water. I started with surf and skimboard and other water sports but my favourite sport became windsurfing.
Most visited website? (Other than Facebook!) Any site that has news about windsurfing
Three words you believe describe you: crazy, happy, I enjoy life
A phrase or motto you live by: When you have a dream, go for it.

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If you were a superhero, which power would you want to have? To feel no pain.

You’re going on a windsurfing trip to a desert island, other than your windsurf gear, what 3 things do you take with you?
Surfboard, goggles/mask, girlfriend

What poster did you have on your wall growing up?
I had many posters. I had a book of double page spreads from magazines of windsurfers.

If you could trade places with any other person for a week, famous or not famous, living or dead, real or fictional. with whom would it be?
I like my life! I wouldn’t swap with anyone.

Who would you like to sit next to on a long haul flight? There are some kids in Guadaloupe who like windsurfing. They are so motivated and they live for it and I want to pick one of these little guys to join me to fly over to Maui.

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How long have you been windsurfing? Since I was 5 years old.

Where is your favourite windsurfing spot? Guadaloupe and Maui

If you have a number on your sails, what is the significance of the number you selected? F193 – It’s my birthday.

How did you deal with the crash at Jaws when it happened? You think beforehand that if something like this happens to you you’ll never survive. You see another guy falling in Jaws but when it it’s your turn you just think ok it’s my turn. You forget everything, let everything go and super concentrate and you’re not afraid.

Who was your inspiration when you started windsurfing and why? My cousin. He was a really good sailor. He would be here if he continued windsurfing. He stopped windsurfing when he was 18 but if he continued he’d have been sponsored.

Which move are you currently trying to master?
I have many moves I’m trying. It depends on the weather. When I’m in side off conditions I try some surf moves, when I’m in Pozo I try other moves. On Maui I try many moves because it’s not my tack. I’d like to do a perfect 360.

Which spot haven’t you sailed at yet which you’d love to try? Cabo Verde. It’s one of the best waves of the world. And Marshall Islands.

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What are your strengths? What are your weaknesses?
When I want something I give my all. 100%. I would like to stay more relaxed.

What is a typical night out? What is a typical night in?
If I stay home it’s because I’m tired and I did too much! In Maui, we just windsurf but in Guadaloupe I go to the beach or go to the waterfalls during the day and at night I’ll just hang out with friends.

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I’m a big believer in…. life is what you make it.

Call me crazy but…. when I go crazy on the water, I am afraid!

My favorite place on earth is…. Guadaloupe

My parents are…. fantastic

I could never…. live without my family and my friends

I’ve always wanted to…. go windsurfing

Life is nothing without…. windsurfing

Today I will…. try my new board

The internet is…. good and bad

If I had the power I would change…. the pollution in the world

I am…. super Titoun!

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Boujmaa Guilloul : Morocco

Boujmaa is well known for his infectious smile and happiness but even more so for his windsurfing skills. He is definitely not one to shy away from attempting extreme and difficult moves and this makes him one of the more interesting windsurfers to watch and photograph. Boujmaa constantly pushes the boundaries in the windsurf sport and is widely recognized as one of the more radical and innovative sailors. Here’s a little insight into Boujmaa…

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The Basics:
Name: Boujmaa Guilloul
Age: (29)
Nationality: Moroccan
Status: Not Single 🙂
Where are you currently based? Essaouira Morocco
Sponsors: Starboard, Severne, Mystic
How many languages do you speak? Which ones? 4, Arabic, French, English and some Spanish
Why are you so passionate about windsurfing? I don’t know, it is what make my life the way it is, I think I am where I am right now because of it.
Most visited website? (Other than Facebook!): Windguru, Windsurfjournal, Guilloul.com
Three words that others might use to describe you: Honest, generous, simple, friendly.
A phrase or motto you live by: I lived by this, since I heard it over 10 years ago: don’t dream your life, Live your dreams.

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Shallow Waters

If you could have dinner with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and why?
My Father, I never had a proper dinner with him.

If you were a superhero, which power would you want to have?
I don’t know, I believe with the power of unity everything is logically possible.

Favorite or most used app?

I use a lot of Instagram, Whatsapp and Facebook

If you were invisible for a day what would you get up to?
No idea. I have never thought about it, but probably will do something good, or for the good of humanity, I wish I had power to remember my deepest thoughts and put them alive..

If I take a look inside your refrigerator what would I find?
Cheese, Chocolate, Veggies, Fruits.

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Windsurfing

How long have you been windsurfing?
16years

Where is your favorite windsurfing spot and why?
Morocco, because it’s Home, beside that, Maui, Capverde and Australia, because this places has something unique than everywhere else I have been to.

Who was your inspiration when you started windsurfing and why?
When I started, I looked up to the boys at my friends at the local windsurf club, when started to see magazines and video, Goya was my hero, levi and Polakow as well 🙂

If you weren’t a windsurfer, what would you be doing?
At School I planed to become a language teacher and then I worked a bit a windsurf clubs back home and I thought I could be a windsurf teacher as well. But professional windsurfing is the best thing that could happen to me.

Which windsurfing move do you wish you had invented?
Triple loop.

What are you doing when you’re not windsurfing?

At home I will be surfing or spending time with friends talking stories and having tea in local coffee shops.

What kind of training do you do, be it physical or mental, to keep you in shape for windsurfing?
Road bicycle, body weight workouts, a bit of stretching. No mental workout.

Which spot haven’t you sailed at yet which you’d love to try?
California. Italy..

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Deep Waters

Other than family, what do you cherish in your life and why is it so important to you?
Religion, it is where I feel kind of safe, where my mind find balance in what kind of choices I should make when it comes to important decisions.

How do you want to be remembered?

I don’t really know, I think the way I am, might mark a good memory in people’s heads.

What has been your greatest achievement outside of windsurfing?
Built a house 🙂

How do you personally define success?
I think success can be reached once we are happy with the simplest things in life, be satisfied by the least and stay optimist no matter heavy events we go trough, “overcoming the material life”

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Please finish all these sentences:

I’m a big believer in….Destiny

Call me crazy but…. I am not scared to die windsurfing.

My favorite place on earth is…. On a wave

My parents are…. The best 🙂

I could never…. Smoke cigarette

I’ve always wanted to…. Try a different lifestyle than a pro windsurfer

Life is nothing without…. Love

Today I will…. Live to the fullest

The internet is…. Good and bad

If I had the power I would change…. People lives if needed.

I am…. Who I am because of who we all are.

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A Day in the Life of Victor Fernandez Lopez : E42, Spain

While we were in Maui we had the opportunity to document a day in the life of one of the current top windsurfers, Victor Fernandez Lopez. Here’s what he got up to!

Victor kick starts the day off with a healthy breakfast before checking out the day’s forecast and replying to emails.
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Last year Victor stayed in the rain forest area of Haiku which is on the North Shore of Maui and only a few minutes drive from Ho’okipa. A quick gear check and a short drive to our next stop.
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Unfortunately for Victor he had an ankle injury from the Sylt competition which he was still having treatment for in Maui with Sam from Deep Relief. Deep Relief has a solid reputation for their work and is well known for their effective treatment especially amongst the athlete community. Let’s hope you’ll never need to visit Sam but in case you do here’s the website! http://www.deepreliefmaui.com
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After being KT taped for some extra support for his windsurfing session later in the day, Sam gives Victor a few exercises for his ankle.
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Next stop, COFFEE! Baked on Maui is a great little coffee shop at The Cannery in Haiku and they serve some the most tasty pastries you can find on the North shore! You’ll often find many of the local windsurfers and surfers stopping off here. Victor has a few more errands before getting to Ho’okipa including picking up some MFC Fins which is also at The Cannery. MFC Fins are hugely popular with professional windsurfers and they also have a great range of SUP fins. For more info check out the website. http://www.mauifin.com/
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We then head on upstairs for his first meeting with two of Positive H2O’s founding members, Pascal Bronniman & Jake Miller. Positive H2O is a movement for clean water that brings together a community of athletes, conservationists, non-profits and companies, which help to facilitate local solutions on a global scale. Their mission statement reads “we promote a lifestyle that is healthy, conscious, creative and in harmony with the environment. Having clean oceans and access to clean drinking water and sanitation for people in need are at the top of Positive H2O’s priorities.” Victor is one of H2Os team riders. Take a moment to check out their website and feel free to contact Pascal or Jake to see how you can help http://www.positiveh2o.com
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We haven’t quite left The Cannery yet! We get a sneak peak at one of Victor’s new boards! Victor’s custom board is shaped by his Fanatic shaper, Sebastian Wenzel, and then these boards along with Victor’s feedback provide the basis of next year’s production boards for Fanatic.
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After all errands are run it’s off to Ho’okipa for one of Victor’s last sessions while he was on Maui last year. Here are a few shots of Victor rigging up at Ho’okipa, adding his new +H2O sticker to his sail and setting up his Go Pro!
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Many thanks to Victor for letting us follow him and also for putting up with my camera being stuck in his face for most of the day!

Most of the photos below were shot on this same day with the exception of a 2 or 3 which we thought were worth posting too!
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Kai Lenny : Maui, Hawaii

At the young age of 20, Kai Lenny has already become an outstanding athlete in a range of watersports including windsurfing, kitesurfing, surfing, stand up paddle and tow surfing. He is strongly passionate and fully committed to his water-centric life and has recently shown himself to be a stand out at paddle surfing some of Jaws’ recent large swells.

Kai’s love of the ocean began at a very early age and life on Maui provides him a workplace & playground that perfectly caters to his training in all his watersports. His achievements are many but in 2010 he became the first ever Stand Up Paddle World Champion, a title which he retained in 2011 and in 2012 he became SUP World Racing Champion.

We got to meet with Kai for a face to face interview in a great coffee shop, Anthony’s Coffee Co,
in one of the most character-filled and laid back places on planet earth, Paia. As with so many of the athletes we’ve interviewed, Kai was genuinely friendly and his positivity and wholesome ambition is apparent in his demeanour and replies.

Many thanks to Kai for his time in answering our questions!

Check out Kai Lenny’s webpage: http://www.hawaiianwaterman.com/

The Basics

Name: Kai Lenny
Age: 20 years old
Nationality: American
Status: Single
Where are you currently based: Maui
Sponsors: Naish, Red Bull, Oxbow, Maui Fin Company, Contour, Turtle Bay Resorts

Why are you so passionate about windsurfing?
The reason I love windsurf so much is because for me it’s like riding a motorcycle on water. You have a lot of power at your disposal, almost too much sometimes. You have the ability to jump as high as you want and you are able to do very maneuverable tricks and all these things you would be able to do surfing so windsurfing feels like you’re riding a dirt bike but on water and it feels natural. I surround my entire life with being on the water. Everything I ever do in my life is surrounded by doing some sort of watersport.

Most visited website:
I guess I just check swells. I like checking Windguru because it’s the most accurate but I’ve been looking at Surfline alot as it gives more insight as to when exactly it’s going to hit. With Windguru you can’t go wrong. It seems like they have every single spot on planet earth!

Three words you believe describe you:
fun loving addict

Three words that others might use to describe you:
You should ask those other people!

A phrase or motto you live by:
Train hard, have fun and keep dedicated because if you have a goal in your mind or if you have something in your mind that you want to achieve then anything is possible. You can do whatever you want in this life.

Shallow Waters

If you could have dinner with one person, dead or alive, who would it be and why?
It’s so hard because I admire so many people. There are so many great people in the world but off the top of my head right now it would be fun to have dinner with a Frank Sinatra or an Abraham Lincoln. Someone who was a character. These two were opposite characters but both of them would be interesting.

If you were a superhero, which power would you want to have?
I’m split between flying but I’d love to be able to breathe underwater. If I could combine the two that would be perfect! I guess if you have Superman powers he can hold his breath – maybe I’ll just go with Superman powers!

You’re going a windsurfing trip to a desert island, other than your windsurf gear, what three things do you take with you?
I’ve kind of experienced that already. I went to the Marshall Islands a few years ago with Levi and Jason Polakow and a bunch of the Oxbow guys. We had limited space on the boat so everyone was saying we’re taking this and this but I took everything! The 3 things beside windsurf gear was surfing, kiteboard, stand up gear and besides that I sneaked in some other things too! Everyone had 3 bags, I had 6! When we got there everyone was like you have 6 bags but by then there was nothing they could do about it!

Who would you like to sit next to on a long haul flight?
If I was on a super long flight I’d want to sit next to a Victoria’s Secret model!

What poster did you have on your wall growing up?
I always had posters of Robby Naish, Laird Hamilton, all the guys at Jaws. I always had Jaws pictures. It was water-centric. To be honest, I kept my room pretty clean and the walls! I went through the classic movie RIP all the time. I ruined a VHS tape and then I’d go buy a new one just so I could watch again because I’d watch it so many times that the tape would wear out. It would disintegrate! I would watch it through and then stick it back in and watch it again. Just thinking back about all the times I watched Jaws videos and all the times I watched RIP – how did I watch them so consistently?

How old were you when RIP came out? Four or three and half!

What’s your favorite or most used app?
Recently it’s been Instagram. I use music on my phone more than anything else. I use it more than my phone! I just text people because I’m in such a rush! I like looking at movie trailers too.

Favorite kind of movie?
Recently I liked the New Dark Knight. I like everything, depending on however I feel. I’m not into pure horror! By the end of those kind of movies I feel too skittish!

What was the last movie you watched?
Apocalypse Now

If I take a look inside your refrigerator would would I find?
Red Bull, salad dressing, ketchup. That’s it right now as I was traveling for two months so I just haven’t stocked up.

Too much swell to go shopping?!
Exactly! I just go to my parents’ fridge and raid their fridge and they have everything. You name it they have everything!

If you could trade places with any other person for a week, famous or not, living or dead, real or fictional, who would it be?
To be honest, I feel my life is better than anyone’s. I wake up and I go do whatever I want. I go in the ocean and have fun. I travel all over the world, meet new people and then I can have any gear I desire because I’m sponsored. I have my dream car. I live on Maui. Celebrities get hounded. I’d maybe be happy in a different scene just for a little while to get a different perspective on life.

Windsurfing

How long have you been surfing/windsurfing/SUP/kiting?
Started surfing when I was four, windsurfing when I was 6 and SUP when I was 7, kiting when I was 9, tow in surfing when I was 9.

And now you’re paddling into Jaws!
Yeah! This last swell I got caught inside by a huge set. I was inside and I was sitting out there and this bomb came in. And the scary thing with Jaws is you can’t see anything when you go over the next wave because there’s so much spray. All you see is this dark shadow. I took three waves where the lip landed right there. I was so scared because you see the waves moving slow. I’d go under and open my eyes and I’d instantly be 50 feet under water because as soon as you go under 50 feet of water goes over you. I’m looking up and there are just these gnarly white water clouds. You get pounded and then I’d come up and I wouldn’t get pulled in. Sometimes when you wipe out you get pounded down but you don’t get dragged, you stay in the same spot. So I popped up and the next wave is right there. Finally I got dragged in a little bit. I didn’t want to pull the CO2 cartridge as I only had one left. If I needed to I would have but I didn’t want to because I didn’t want to waste it.

Where is your favorite windsurf spot and why?
I really like Cape Verde. It’s such a fun wave. You can do the biggest aerials, big solid turns, not necessarily the best waves for tricks but it’s such a clean crisp wave. I just love that wave.

And your favorite SUP spot?
Pipeline.

You’re one of the very few that have SUPed there?
Yeah, a couple of people have. When I went I didn’t say I want to go stand up paddle at Pipeline. I was driving to Waikiki and Jamie O’Brien calls me and says let’s go standup at Pipe. So I basically went with Jamie because he knows that place so well. I also knew a lifeguard who I went with but I would not suggest for anyone to go out there unless you’re invited. I haven’t been out since because I haven’t been invited.

Your favorite surf spot? Jaws

And for kiting? The Point at Ho’okipa

You’re very prominent in the watersport world and very much a household name so how deal with the constant attention and pressure of being in the limelight?
A favorite saying of mine that I always tell myself is ‘rise to the occasion’ . So if I’m out at Jaws and I don’t feel super comfortable and I feel pressure because a lot of my heros are out there and I want to show them what I’ve got I would tell myself ‘rise to the occasion’ to push myself to get to be at that level and I’ve been doing that my whole life, basically rising to the occasion. There are times you wish you didn’t have to do something and you wish it was mellower but when it’s mellower I wish I had the pressure because it’s fun!! It adds that little bit of intensity level and motivation. Rising to the occasion is my favorite thing.

How do you stay grounded and normal?

I don’t believe that what I do is ever good enough in my mind. I’m always a perfectionist. I always feel I could be better in this part of my life or this portion of sports or whatever. That keeps me humble knowing I’m not at the level I want to be at and I don’t think I care if people think I’m the best. I do in a way because I want to be the best but it doesn’t effect me because I want to feel the best for myself. If I feel I’m the best in my mind then I’m satisfied. It feels good to be recognized. I’m grateful. I remind myself to be grateful. It’s been a lot of work to get there. It hasn’t been given. I had to work really hard so that’s one of the reasons why I want to keep this going and that’s why I want to stay humble. You can watch every train wreck – as soon as someone gets famous they get cocky or big then all of a sudden they disappear. If I stay humble, I might stay a little longer!

Which move are you currently trying to master?
In surfing I”m trying to get my aerials down. Trying to get it where I can air reverse 360 consistently. With kite surfing trying to work on my strapless and to be able to jump really high without footstraps and do rotations. Two rotations are my goal. Windsurfing I have a list of moves I’ve thought up of. When I’m in my jumping mood I really love jumping. If I was on a wave it would be sick to do perfect aerial fowards where you clear sections and you then forward and land on the other side of the sections. Not where you forward and land in the same spot but clear sections. With jumping I’ve been into doing the Kono backside and you pop it and then you do a forward.

What challenges have you encountered in your career and how have you overcome them?
I’ve always made sure I surround myself around positive people. There are always going to be negative people no matter what. If you’re a really good person, there’s always someone that’s negative to it. That’s just life. The biggest challenge is to not be that child star syndrome. There are so many kids that can’t quite make it. They’re on the edge, can’t make and then disappear. I did not want that to happen. Once I knew I made it I felt I was on more level ground. I don’t feel so much pressure now.

What is the biggest misconception about being professional waterman?
People just think you go ride and do nothing else but it’s a lot of work. For example, getting gear fixed, replying to emails and making phone calls. I get so many emails you have no idea! Basically it’s like a business. I was in Australia for two weeks doing a promotional tour. I went to two shops a day for two weeks and then I raced in between. That’s draining. Half of the time it’s fun and then half of the time it’s a lot of work. But I enjoy that, I like working. If I’m not working, I feel like I should be doing something. The biggest misconception is that it’s a free ride but you always have to be behind the 8 ball and keep reinventing yourself.

Which spot would you like to sail or surf?
I’ve never been to Indonesia. It’s super rad for surfing. For windsurfing I want to go back to the Marshall Islands. Oh my gosh, that place is just a dream down there!

What has been your scariest ride?
I don’t know, I’ve been scared a lot! Jaws is always so scary. Ok, the first wipeout I had a Jaws. I was towing and it was probably the biggest wave I’ve ever ridden at Jaws on the left. I got really comfortable because it was when were were tow surfing and you get 50 waves in an hour. I was going left and it started to close out. I saw the section and I thought I can make that but what I didn’t know out of experience is that you can make the section but then there’s going to be another section coming towards you. I could have kicked out but I was scared to kick out because I what if I kicked out and my worst fear was if I saw a bomb breaking on my head. At that point you feel so alone and it’s the scariest thing in the world. I still have nightmares about that. I was going and I made it around the section. I came out and I tried kicking out and it was just too steep and I went so high and was on the edge and I could almost make it out but I just slipped on my board. I fell and the wave barreled over me. I was 16 at the time and I truly thought I was going to die. Underwater I was literally thinking I lived a great life and I’d done so much in my life. I didn’t actually have any flashbacks! I was just thinking whatever happens let it be but then I came up with so much oxygen because I was so relaxed. I came up and started laughing because I was alive. Dave Kalama comes flying past me on the jet ski and tells me he’s going to get my board. I went under another small wave and DK and Shaun Walsh come over and picked me up on the jet ski.

Deep Waters

Other than family, what do you cherish in your life and why is it so important to you?
My life is simple. I don’t go out much. I like hanging out with my family. I have a group of really close friends I do things with. The reason why I never got into partying or I’ve never had any alcohol or done drugs in my life is because I’ve always been so focused on my sports and been so passionate about that. That’s my love, being in the water and trying to figure out the puzzle in the ocean. So why do I need to go do drugs when I’m having way more fun doing this. As soon as you go into drugs or alcohol it’s because what you’re doing doesn’t satisfy you.

How do you stay positive and upbeat?
I’ve always tried to be as positive as I can because whenever I am good things happen and even if bad things happen there’s always been something I can learn from it. There hasn’t been one situation in my life where something happened that hasn’t been for the greater good. Nothing good can come out of being negative.

What’s your greatest achievement outside of the water?
Everything has always been on the water!

What do you consider to be your worst quality?
Being impatient.

And your best quality?
Having drive and not giving up. Actually that’s probably my worst quality too because sometimes you have to just let it go! You can’t make chicken soup out of chicken poop! I always get told that when I’m training for a contest. Don’t take a crappy wave and expect to do well. You can’t make chicken soup out of chicken poop but you can turn chicken soup into chicken poop!!

How do you personally define success?
Success to me in it’s most basic form is having satisfaction and feeling like you’re content with something. That’s the most basic form. For me I always feel like I have a weight on my shoulders and even if that weight is lifted for 5 minutes it feels like the best feeling in the world. I try not to know what it’s like to not be successful. This year I lost a world title this year in stand up paddling to wave but I almost felt like it was a good thing because it set me up to have more world titles later on because when you win you don’t learn anything. When you lose you learn a lot. Look at Kelly Slater, if he’d have won in 2004 against Andy Irons I’m sure he would have only 7 world titles now but because Andy beat him it drove him to get 11 titles and he’s still in the running to get 12 world titles.

And finally…

I’m a big believer in … always having fun

My favorite place on earth is … Maui

My parents are … the biggest reason why I’m where I am today.

I could never … succumb to drugs or alcohol.

I’ve always wanted to … be on Saturday Night Live

Life is nothing without … a dream

Today I will … have more fun than I had yesterday.

The Internet is … a connection to people around the world

I am … my own worst enemy

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